DAY 23 END OF THE ROAD

Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going.
Paul Theroux

Made it home late afternoon Tuesday happy to be home and sad that it's over until next year. There will be numerous short rides and a week with the wives in October but this one is in the history books.

We are so fortunate to have missed the devastating weather that has touched many of the areas we were near. Just watching it on the news brought back memories of riding in northern Arkansas Mother's Day morning. We had tornado damage on the sides of the road, parking lots with mobile insurance offices filing claims on a Sunday, and packed church parking lots.

We are all home safe, rode some unbelievable country, met incredible people, all on two wheels. The saying "It's Not The Destination, It's The Journey" isn't brand specific and certainly describes our group.

As always I must thank my family who indulge me and realize how important the trip is to my mental well being.

Chuck

DAY 22 May 23

Left this morning headed south on I-25 with jackets on to the first gas stop. Jan suggested that we head west on two lane roads instead of continuing down the interstate, we could pick up 25 again in Santa Fe. That’s all it took and we were westbound on Co 160 (I think) with 14,000 foot snow covered peaks to our side and 60 MPH lightly traveled roads.

Eventually ended up back on I-25 then I-40 to Gallup where we are stopped for our last night, luckily the motel has a restaurant and bar on site . Spent dinner talking about the ride and what we could do next year, would like to complete the river road in the future but not next year.

Today while I was riding put together some thoughts about the things that had left an impression with me on this trip. There are probably a few hundred things that have left a memory that will pop up in the months and years to come I know any list would leave out to many but here are a few in no particular order:

The Natchez Trace, a path created over 2000 years ago by migrating animals still in use by the same, us.

The Tail of The Dragon, not any more challenging than many other roads but oh so famous.

The camaraderie of other riders at Deals Gap and anywhere else we ran into fellow travelers.

Of course the Blue Ridge Parkway, a 460 mile long National Park of incredible beauty, so many shades of green on a great road.

Finding a motel with a restaurant and lounge after an afternoon in the rain south of Toledo.

Meeting the Over The Wall Crew at breakfast the next morning. These young men were from a trade school in North Carolina for, what else, pit crews.

Sitting at a picnic table in Wisconsin above the Mississippi near one of the dams eating fresh cheese sold in quarter pound little baggies while a barge heads upriver.

The color of the sky above the 45th parallel, a most incredible blue in the top quarter of the world.

At a scenic view in Iowa above the river just sitting for a few minutes to watch a bald eagle hunt along the bluffs.

The fun of talking to new people anywhere we were. A couple of nights ago sitting outside a motel on a bench when a man started as the always do, “You the fellas on the bikes?” wanted to know where we are going and where we are from. We asked this particular man where he was from and he said, CheBOYgan.

I could go on forever about things that left an impression but it’s time to skip to my favorite part of the trip.

Every morning I get up pack most of the gear and take it out to the bike. Then it’s time to meet the guys for breakfast and discuss exactly which way we are heading today and what roads we are going to start on. Then it’s back to the room grab the helmet make a last check and walk to the bike, time for my favorite part.

I toss the last of my cup of coffee into the trash, fasten the helmet, start the bike, and turn down a new road.

DAY 21

Hey frank wont ya pack your bags
And meet me tonight down at liberty hall
Just one kiss from you my brother
And well ride until we fall
Well sleep in the fields
Well sleep by the rivers and in the morning
Well make a plan
Well if you can't make it
Stay hard, stay hungry, stay alive
If you can
And meet me in a dream of this hard land
Bruce Springsteen


Ok, here is today, I-80 to I-76 to I-25 in for the night in Colorado Springs across the freeway from the Air Force Academy. Lucky to find rooms this is graduation week at the academy.

Beautiful day under partially cloudy skies in shirt sleeves all day, threatened rain the last fifty miles but other than a wet street we got lucky again today. Nebraska makes Iowa look like Rocky Mountain State Park very flat and a little windy today. The scenery was what I’ve come to think of as the usual, green trees, newly planted farm fields and the ever present grain silo on the horizon.

Almost 600 miles of interstate driving gives you a chance to let your mind wander, at 80 miles an hour it doesn’t wander far. I’ve been trying to put together a list of favorites or at least things that made a lasting impression.

I’ll try to refine it for tomorrow’s entry.

DAY 20 HEADING WEST

The other Harley riders left early to ride to the HD dealer and get some oil. After checking out the rest of us went ahead and made the 350 foot drive from the motel to the dealership. As we were preparing to leave the rain started, it looked black in every direction. Pulled the bikes into the covered parking and spent the next fifteen minutes suiting up for the rain.

Finally left Galesburg, Carl Sandburg's birth place, heading west on route 34 in the rain. Less than fifteen minutes later the rain stopped, rode the rest of the day under cloudy skies in shirt sleeves, very comfortable. If you looked at a map route 34 runs west from the river across Iowa and into Nebraska.

Last night at dinner we started talking about our time line to be home, Tuesday is the goal, and the need to start heading west. That brought out the maps this morning and we are east of Denver so....we headed that way. The Mississippi River Valley area was forecast for a few days of rain and more flooding things we would like to avoid.

Plenty of miles today all but the last 70 or so on beautiful two lane of small towns and farms. These farms differ from what we are used to, no sprinkler or irrigation system, they are dependent on the rains for a good harvest. The corn is planted, about a foot tall, the lawns are green with friendly people waving from the porch. Lunch was an Iowa pork tenderloin at a small family retstaurant sitting just off the road all by itself, awesome.

In for the night in Lincoln Nebraska, dinner at a sports bar followed by quick trip to the hot tub. Got an email from a guy, Steve, we met in the U.P. he is following our trip. He is an inspiration to keep this up 74 years young and still riding, probably out ride many of us.

Posted some more pictures. We continue west tomorrow.

DAY 19

Now the rowin' gambler he was very bored
He was tryin' to create a next world war
He found a promoter who nearly fell off the floor
He said I never engaged in this kind of thing before
But yes I think it can be very easily done
We'll just put some bleachers out in the sun
And have it on Highway 61.
Bob Dylan

Left this morning headed south on Dylan's Highway 61, after all we are just down the road from where he was born.

Eventually we crossed into Wisconsin riding the river road in that state then back west into Iowa, finally back into Illinois to finish the day. About 400 miles today almost entirely on the Great American River Roads. The day was overcast and in the 70's all day perfect riding weather for six friends on motorcycles.

We rode past several dams today that help control the flow and depth of the river, each is equipped with a lock to allow the boat traffic to pass the dam. Watched barges travelling upriver fighting the current and dozens of fisherman in every kind of boat imaginable negotiating the shallows fishing pole in hand. In Iowa there is an area which actually has a hill overlooking the river and we pulled to the side just to take it all in. Most of Iowa is so flat that they put caution downgrade ahead signs on the parking lot speedbumps.

I was leading trying to find the entrance to a motel and ended up stuck in a Taco Bell parking lot going the wrong way in the drivethru. Made it around the only car in the way poor lady looked very startled.

The Mississippi is very impressive as we head south, we aren't even to the biggest tributaries and the river is huge, I can't believe that two days ago I waded across 18 feet wide two feet deep and this is the same river. The Mississippi is the fourth longest river in the world and drains the US between the Rockies and the Appalachian mountains.

DAY 18

Left this morning under beautiful sunny skies and comfortable temps. We backed tracked just a bit to get headed in the right direction and soon found ourselves on the Great River Road or at least that’s what the sign said, I still couldn’t see the river although we did cross it a few times.

We rode southeast roughly following the river towards Minneapolis past farms, forests, and lots of lakes, after all it is Minnesota. We stopped at a small store and their live bait section was larger than the combined candy, chips, and soft drinks.. Of course they also had a winch in the parking lot to hang your deer and get a photo op. Passed lots of resorts getting ready for the summer season.

Jumped on the highway to get around Minneapolis then back onto the river road. Stopped for the night in Red Wing MN just down the road from the shoe factory at the River View Inn. This is where Highway 61 becomes the Minnesota River Road.

Met and old friend, Gary, for dinner and reminiscing had a great visit over all too soon.
On down the river tomorrow for at least a few more days before we turn for home with mixed emotions.

Map of todays ride: http://goo.gl/maps/MY5S

DAY 17 THE HEADWATERS

Woke this morning to Lake Superior looking like a giant mirror. Left Ashland headed west and soon rode into Superior/Duluth at the western end of Lake Superior. It’s the western most port on the great lakes, they ship grain and iron ore all over the world. Superior is in Wisconsin and Duluth is in Minnesota but they are only separated by a river.

Does any one know where the love of god goes
When the waves turn the minutes to hours?
The searches all say they'd have made whitefish bay
If they'd put fifteen more miles behind her.
They might have split up or they might have capsized;
May have broke deep and took water.
And all that remains is the faces and the names
Of the wives and the sons and the daughters.

Lake huron rolls, superior sings
In the rooms of her ice-water mansion.
Old michigan steams like a young man's dreams;
The islands and bays are for sportsmen.
And farther below lake ontario
Takes in what lake erie can send her,
And the iron boats go as the mariners all know
With the gales of november remembered.

Gordon Lightfoot-The Wreck Of The Edmund Fitzgerald

Superior was the last port-of-call for the Edmund Fitzgerald which sank with all hands aboard.

Left heading west riding on beautiful country roads alternating between farms and forests for mile after mile. Stopped in some little town for lunch at a small café called Woody’s, good food with a local flavor. Left route 2 for route 200 west and made it to Lake Itasca, stopped at the visitors center before driving down to the headwaters of the Mississippi River. You remember the Mississippi River it was one of the reasons we headed this way two and a half weeks ago. Found the headwaters and Jan and I had to wade across the mighty miss-a-sip.

We took the seventeen mile ride around the lake before heading for Bemidji MN, the first town on the river, and stopping for the day. Bemidji is north of Duluth just 120 miles from the Canadian border.

The weather today was awesome, jackets in the morning turning to t-shirts by lunch. The sky is such an incredible blue with just a few wisps of white as if you were painting and had to get the last bit of white out of your brush. Traffic was almost nonexistent just a beautiful day, the kind we do this for. Tomorrow we head south, down the river we'll see how far we get.

DAY 16 NORTH OF THE LAKE

Took a look down a westbound road
Right away I made my choice
Headed out to my big two-wheeler
I was tired of my own voice
Took a beat on the northern plains
And just rolled that power on
Twelve hours out of Mackinaw City
Stopped at a bar to have a brew
Met a girl, had a few drinks
And I told her what I decided to do
She looked out the window a long, long moment
And she looked into my eyes
She didn't have to say a word
I knew what she was thinkin'
Roll, roll me away, won't you roll me away tonight

Bob Seger

The reference isn’t perfect we didn’t drive twelve hours, my girl is in Phoenix, and we’re not headed for the plain states but: This a great bike song and the only one I know with motorcycles and Macinaw City in the opening verse.

Left this morning and immediately went over the bridge to the U.P. When crossing the bridge you have Lake Huron to the east and Lake Michigan to the west, I believe we have now been to all five great lakes on motorcycle. They are huge, together they are the largest group of fresh water lakes on earth and hold over 20% of the fresh water on the planet.

As soon as we were over the bridge we turned west on route 2 across the top of Lake Michigan. This is a great drive, not challenging but very pretty with a series of small vacation and fishing communities. At one stop I walked into the store to find several elderly gentlemen on wooden chairs around a coffee pot. One immediately asked “where ya headin on that cycle?” I got to talking about our trip while the rest of the guys were outside. They had met a 74 year old motorcycle rider who likes the iron butt rides (1000 miles in 24 hours) and is currently planning a circle lake ride in 24 hours, quite a guy. His name is Steve and he is an inspiration to keep riding for a good many years yet.

The weather was great today a touch on the cool side so a jacket felt good all day. The only thing interrupting the incredibly blue sky was a few random jet contrails. Traffic was almost nonexistent although we did see a few bikes going the other direction.

Stayed on route 2 all day, our motel tonight is still on route 2 but we are now in Ashland, Wisconsin. The motel is all log construction and we have a balcony on the second floor overlooking Lake Superior. Just finished dinner at a restaurant next door and ready to call it a night pretty soon, forecast for morning is cold.

Link to todays route http://goo.gl/maps/mYlX

DAY 15

kathy," i said as we boarded a greyhound in pittsburgh"
michigan seems like a dream to me now"
It took me four days to hitchhike from saginaw
I've gone to look for America
Paul Simon

We walked out to leave Saginaw this morning and Bruce had a dead battery, eventually got the bike to Great Lakes Harley in Bay Michigan for a replacement. While we were there Jan got an oil change and they oiled my sticking throttle cable, checked my tires, and tried to buy my bike, which is over 70,000 now, very friendly dealership.

Once all this was done we decided it was time for lunch and feeling a bit nostalgic Al found a Bob’s Big Boy restaurant, boy that takes me back a few years. Our waitress was worthy of our group and earned our respect for keeping up with the jabs back and forth.

Since we had now ridden almost ten miles for the day we got on I-75 and headed north under beautiful sunny skies and temps in the high 40’s great riding weather as long as your dressed for it. Made it to Mackinaw City and stopped for the night in sight of the bridge to the Upper Peninsula or U.P., as in you goin up the U.P.? We had time to take a drive around town, visit the old lighthouse and walk the shops of main street, had to sample the fudge since apparently that’s what they are famous for.

Mackinaw City is a very quaint coastal town, it looks like a set for a lake shore movie where the killer is someone you would never expect. Pedestrian friendly walkways and parks along the shore with a main street full of curio shops and fudge shops.

While we were riding north we passed the 45 parallel, the half way point between the north pole and the equater, putting us in the top 25% of the world.

Just south is the larger city of Cheboygan and I don’t know why but the name cracks me up, it is pronounced che-BOY-gan. Say it with me three times fast CheBOYgan, CheBOYgan, CheBOYgan. That’s just funny to me. The city is located in-wait for it- CheBOYgan County.

Check your maps tomorrow we hit Route 2 along the north side of Lake Michigan rumored to be one of the prettiest drives in the country, we’ll see.

DAY 14 SUNDAY

Long as i remember
the rain been comin' down.
Clouds of myst'ry pourin'
confusion on the ground.
Good men through the ages,
tryin' to find the sun;
And i wonder, still i wonder,
who'll stop the rain.
John Fogerty

This would be the perfect day to stay indoors, watch a movie, read a book, or sit by the fire. Low clouds, cool temps and a steady rain with a forecast of more of the same all day. We however are in a Days Inn south of Toledo with a bar that doesn't open until eight pm. Oh well time to suit up and separate the men from the boys.

Headed north in the rain, continued north in the rain, stopped for lunch somewhere in the rain, got gas in the rain. Then suddenly the rain stopped and it was not bad out actually started to dry out and enjoy the day, new that couldn't last. The air turned cold and the wind started to blow just before we reached Saginaw Michigan. Decided to call it a night in Saginaw at a great Holiday Inn with an indoor hot tub/pool made it an early day.

On the plus side we are all in safe, stayed fairly dry, and I had time to post some of Al's pictures. just click on Trip photos at outsidetheframe.org and look for Al's 2011.

DAY 13 SATURDAY

Beautiful morning drive across West Virginia on US 50 into Ohio then north turning towards Michigan. After lunch headed north west on state route 250 and immediately found ourselves in Amish country. Passed a dozen or more horse drawn wagons in both directions along with stores selling all kinds of handmade items, this is truly beautiful country. At one stop sign an Amish man and a boy of about ten were selling baskets. The young boy was staring at us with a very solemn expression, I gave him a smile and a wave, and he broke into a big grin and started waving back. I think kids are kids were ever you go, never met a boy that didn’t like a Harley.

Shortly found ourselves in rolling hills and large farms with a rapidly approaching storm, in an unusual move stopped to dig out rain gear before it actually started raining, what a good idea. The sky turned black as night and just opened up there was no building, overpass or any form of shelter in any direction. The good news was that we had the road to ourselves as all the cars had pulled to the side and turned on their flashers since they couldn’t see to drive. We couldn’t see either but after the fog yesterday didn’t consider that an impediment to forward progress. It was like driving in a car wash and it cleaned all the dead bugs off the front of the bike.

The rain lightened and we stopped to congratulate each other on still being upright and on the road before continuing, soon in another rain but this time light with everybody dressed for it. Eventually found a motel just south of Toledo Ohio about ten miles from Lake Erie. Once we saw the sign, restaurant, lounge, Jacuzzi, on premises we know we were done for the day.

If you have any friends getting ready to buy a motorcycle that live back in this area two good gifts would be a rain suit and a bottle of bug remover.

DAY 12 FRIDAY THE 13TH

The Fog comes / on little cat feet / It sits looking over / harbor and city / on silent haunches / and then moves / on

Carl Sandburg

Left the motel and pulled up to the ranger station to enter the Skyline Drive, she said be careful there’s some fog on the mountain. Started up the mountain and almost immediately entered thick fog, didn’t see another vehicle for the first 20 minutes. Continued to drive thinking it would improve but it never did you could see the yellow line and a few feet to either side of the road. I was second in line just following a taillight and a vague outline thinking that the only thing that would make this worse would be no yellow line when we hit a construction area and the yellow disappeared! Twenty-five miles in found a small store and inquired about the fastest way off the mountain, ten miles later we headed down out of the fog. I’ve heard the view is incredible but I’ll have to trust the pictures on the web site for that judgment.

The highway we took off the skyline drive was 33 and we just stayed on it, never a road we intended to ride but what a great two lane road. It lead us west into West Virginia up and over the Shenandoah mountains thru small towns and a ski resort before meeting up with the interstate. We got on I- 79 north to put on a few miles before the day was over, stopped for the night in Bridgeport WV. We are across the street from a 960 acre FBI compound that is home to their computer networks bedding down in a new Holiday Inn with a badly needed hot tub.

After lunch today we put on raingear for the second time this trip, it had rained hard while we ate. Headed out on 33 in a light rain which ended in a few minutes, took the gear off and packed it back up at the next stop, our luck continued one more day.

Todays route map: http://goo.gl/maps/MtyK

DAY 11

Bruce and I headed for Roanoke Harley after breakfast to get an oil change for him and a rear tire for me. Told them we were traveling and we went to the front of the line, while changing the tire the tech noticed that I had a broken header pipe by the rear cylinder. That would explain the odd whistling noise I had been hearing the last day or so. The servicer manager said it could be welded and he had a friend with a welding shop just down the road, about three hours later everything back together, new tire on ready to roll, that's Harley service.

Picked up the other guys at the motel, except Jan who had gone ahead to visit an uncle along the today’s route. A few miles and we were back on the Blue Ridge Parkway heading north under cloudy skies and cooler temps, jacket felt good. The parkway continued its up and down the mountains weaving in and out from ridge top to forest much the same as the yesterday. You might think this would get monotonous but it never does there is always something different and challenging with the road.

After lunch we took over half of a Hardees Drive-In to don rain gear for the first time before heading north into a light rain and fog. The rain only lasted for about twenty miles and never was more than a sprinkle, not bad for the first in eleven days. From the parkway you could look down into the valleys full of fog and as you approached the gaps between the hills (which all have names) the fog would come up engulfing the road cutting visibility to a few feet. On one gap the fog lasted as we began to climb back up and when we drove out of it the scenery had changed. We came out higher than usual and the trees appeared bare with spooky crooked branches reaching out towards the road from both sides. When we stopped for a break and examined the trees they were covered in new leaves having just learned it was spring.

Soon we were back into the dense green forests thick with many different types of trees, the forest floor covered with grasses and small bushes, the light rain had also stopped with the fog beginning to clear. All to soon we were at the end of the Blue Ridge having ridden the most of its 460 miles. In the last few days waved to lots of other bikes, had very little traffic, and the most beautiful scenery, almost makes you want to turn around and do it again.

Stopped for the night in Waynesboro VA at the southern end of the skyline drive in the Shenandoah National Forest, we will ride it tomorrow. Lunch today was in Buena Vista, VA where a nice older gentleman wanted to talk about his younger days, there is always a new story to hear and something to learn from these chance encounters, fascinating. One thing I learned today was the proper pronunciation of Buena Vista, apparently it’s Boo’-A (pause)Vida who’d a thunk. I absolutely love the different pronunciations and dialects we hear in different parts of the country, I’m sure we sound as strange to the people we meet. Yesterday at one of our stops an older gentleman looked at us and as I walked by said “summer must be here the motorcycles have come back to the parkway”.

I was asked what kind of trees make up the majority of the forests we have been driving the last few days. There are large trees with straight brown trunks and deep green leaves, and then there are trees with brown crooked trunks and lighter green leaves interspersed with light brown trunks with bright green leaves. Actually learned some are hickory, some oak, and several others I can’t remember.

DAY 10

Ok here is day 10, it’s Thursday morning and I’m getting a tire put on the bike at Roanoke Harley so time to knock out yesterday.

Had a very loud night Tuesday with thunder and driving rain outside while we tried to sleep. The morning brought drying streets, scattered clouds, nice temps, and no more rain. We quickly found a route back to the Blue Ridge Parkway that looked interesting and took us thru Boone the home of Appalachian State University. The road quickly became very rural, small farms and very old buildings some still in use and some abandoned. It appeared that a family would wear out a house and just build another next door without ever tearing the old house down. It was interesting that some looked on the verge of falling over but still had their Dish Network satellite TV. We stopped for a break at a small store deep in the woods, not an overly outgoing group at the store. I had to ask the clerk three times how much I just couldn’t understand her, finally gave her more than enough and waited for change.

We drove by two drive-ins today, regular old fashioned single screen drive-ins with big wooden structures holding the screen. Out front by the road was the old marquee where they hang the letters one was showing Rio and one had the ultimate drive-in movie, Scream 4. Looking in as we drove by these places still had the pole mounted hang it on your window speakers, no stereo here. An old house we drove by that was right up against the side of the mountain had a mid forties black Ford parked out front that looked to be in pretty good shape from the road. I bet the residents grand-daddy used that car to run ‘shine into town for the townies, wouldn’t be surprised if the current resident has the same occupation.

Finally back on the Blue Ridge Parkway, a little different from the southern end. The road was still great two lane with limited cross streets but with some small farms and lodges along the road. The scenery went from mountains to rolling hills with a mix of open meadows to dense forest, all of it so green it almost hurts your eyes. We had very little traffic all day with the occasional car or bike we came up on pulling over at their first opportunity to let us by, my left arm got tired waving at all the bikes going south.

We stopped for lunch just off the parkway at Station Inn, a biker friendly restaurant and bar with a huge parking lot for events. There was just us and one other table but they had seating for probably 200 for weekend events. Sat outside at a picnic table, waitress had a good sense of humor, food was good, creek running by, surrounded by forests. I would have sat there all afternoon and been very happy; this is country I will come back to populated by friendly easy going people.

After lunch back on the parkway and immediately ran into very thick fog made the riding tense and eerie. The fog didn’t last for long and we were back up speed headed down the road. We are now in Roanoke VA and following service to the bikes we will finish the last 100 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway and start the Skyline Drive. It’s Thursday morning as I write this at the Harley Dealer and I have absolutely no idea where we will be tonight, that’s as it should be.

DAY 9 STARTING UP THE BLUE RIDGE

Left this morning headed for Cherokee NC and the start of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Our route took us into Smokey Mountain National Park. After a quick lunch got on the very southern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway and started north. We plan to ride the entire 460 mile length over the next few days. The parkway is a great motorcycle road, if I lived in this area I’d be on it all the time.

The road is probably 22 feet wide two way road, with limited access, no commercial development, and no truck traffic. It winds back and forth along the ridge lines so you always have a drop off to one side and a wall to the other except for the frequent scenic pull-outs. In most areas the trees will stop you if you go off the road as the forested areas are too thick to see into. During the first day we road thru a couple dozen tunnels some longer than others but all, repeat all, had a turn somewhere in the tunnel or were built on a curve so you couldn't’t see out the far end when you entered. The entire road has been posted 45 mph and the longest straight stretch so far was about the length of a football field. The traffic was very light and the few cars we came up on politely moved out of the way at the first opportunity so we could get on down the road wearing out the sides of the tires and dragging the sides of the bike.

I’m tired tonight from the ride but it is a good kind of tired and definitely not from boredom. You have to be alert and riding the bike the entire time no being complacent or lazy on this road. Once again we are not to far as the crow flies from where we stayed last night but a good days ride away.

Last night (Monday) we had a great Mexican food dinner, I’m not sure if it was great because it was across the parking lot, the food was good, or the fact that the beer was in an ice cold mug. Al asked us how many miles he had recorded so far and the answer was just north of 3000 miles. I then checked Google maps and found that we were actually 1800 miles from Phoenix by highway. Boy I like travelling this way, 3000 plus miles to get 1800 miles down the road, lots of interesting sights and people in between.

Stopped for the night in Mars Hill NC, we will be back on the Blue Ridge Parkway in the morning and headed northeast.

PS. road all day in shirt sleeves, like baby bears porridge not to hot, not to cold

DAY 8 TAIL OF THE DRAGON

We slew the dragon, faced him head on, and he was defeated. I believe I'm supposed to receive a reward from the damsel but she is in Phoenix and I think I'm in Tennessee.

Decided to do the whole Cherohala/Dragon loop along with a run to the loop by Fontana Lake. Started towards the dragon from the north and stopped at the motorcycle shop before heading down the dragon. Al and Jan didn't have bells on there bikes to ward off evil spirits and we know that you have to get the bell as a gift for it to have it's full powers. So Jan bought Al a bell and Al bought Jan's and we were soon on our way. Drove the 318 curves in eleven miles followed by a stop at Deals Gap for a souvenir t-shirt a few pictures, and a chance to swap stories of our motorcycle prowess with other riders.

Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy
Sunshine in my eyes can make me cry
Sunshine on the water looks so lovely
Sunshine almost always makes me high
If I had a day that I could give you
I’d give to you a day just like today
John Denver

We were then off for the rest of the loop which was just as good as the dragon with beautiful roads and scenery. Speeds ranged from 50 to 15 from curve to curve incredible roads in great shape. We had very light traffic all day sunny skies, shirt sleeve weather, along the banks of rivers, lakes, and thick forests,an absolutely great ride. Bruce summed it up when we finally stopped to get gas and he said "That's the most fun you can have on a tank of gas".

Stopped for the night 35 miles from where we were last night but oh what a day. At dinner we talked about other rides with sections just as interesting but this one will go in the memory books with them all.

Here is a link to a map of the area we road today minus the to and from the motels.
http://goo.gl/maps/VsAR

We switch leaders with every tank of gas and as luck would have it I was in the lead for 194 miles of the best roads in Tennessee, I love it when thinks just work out right. Bike is a little lighter as I ground down some of the floorboards on the roads of the loop.

DAY 7 HAPPY MOTHERS DAY

Yeah you got yer dead cat
and you got yer dead dog
On a moonlight night
you got yer dead toady frog
Got yer dead rabbit
and yer dead raccoon
The blood and the guts
they're gonna make you swoon!
You got yer dead skunk in the middle of the road
Stinkin' to high Heaven!

Loudon Wainwright III

That lyric best describes the first 100 miles this morning. Lots of animals that didn't pay attention in critter class when the teacher was talking about highway safety. Everything was on the road from a small bear to possums on the half shell (armadillos) to the ever fragrant skunks.

We left at the usual time heading for the Cherohala Parkway which links to the Tail of the Dragon. Passed several areas with downed power lines and crews were hard at work on a Sunday stringing new power lines and replacing poles, many of the businesses still without power. Also passed into an area were the tornadoes had gone across the road leaving total destruction of the houses on each side, makes you very thankful for your own home.

Finally made it into the western edge of the Great Smokey Mountains but had to spend an hour on the Interstate first in stop and go traffic, glad to get back off onto two lane. Soon we were on state route 74 along the Ocoee River a popular white water rafting area. The road follows the river hugging the bank winding back and forth while trying to watch the rafts negotiate the rapids along the way. We eventually turned north on the western leg of the Cherohala one of those roads with trees up to the edge 20 MPH corners and light traffic. Then it was back west to Athens Tennessee to find a place to stay for the night. Not a lot of miles today but with one exception great roads, great weather, and incredible scenery.

I put some pictures on the web site but haven't had time to label and edit them yet, you'll have to guess for now what they are.

DAY 6 SATURDAY MAY 7TH

We're stopped for the night and the map on the wall of the Holiday Inn says we are on the Tennessee River in Florence Alabama, what the hell happened to the Mississippi? Well let me tell you about it, after dinner last night started talking about time and the rising river and that got me thinking. So…this morning after breakfast we headed east for the Natchez Trace and turned northeast for parts unknown, spent most of the day riding the Trace.

The Natchez Trace was originally a bison migration route, and then the Indian tribes of the area began following the “trace” as a trail in the thick forests. President Jefferson ordered the army to improve it for wagon travel as a route from Nashville TN to Natchez MS. Today it is a two lane road winding through the forest with limited access and no commercial development. There is dense forest on both sides of the road occasionally meeting overhead to form a green tunnel then opening into a meadow so thick with wildflowers that the smell is overpowering from the bike, under high thin clouds and 70 degree weather. All this with no cross streets, fifty mile per hour speed limit smooth pavement and a Harley.

Pulled off the Trace to have lunch in some little town and drove from end to end looking for anything that looked like a place to eat. The biggest thing happening in town was the bake/rummage sale at the Pentecostal church we stopped all sales by rumbling by. Found the only place in town to eat the “Family Drive In” pulled in and had a great lunch served by a friendly family.

Stopped early today, lots of daylight left, but everyone needed to do laundry after six days on the road. Quick trip to the Laundromat then back to the motel for a soak in the hot tub where we discovered half a dozen young kids in the pool. Jan started and soon we were all doing cannonballs into the pool stirring up the kids to the consternation of the ladies watching them.

When we walk by a mirror it looks like a group of old guys that ride motorcycles but when I play back the days conversations and actions in my head it’s more like a group of teenagers on their first road trip, great group to be riding with.

Headed towards the Cherohala Parkway and Tail of the Dragon tomorrow.

DAY 5 HEADING NORTH

Left this morning with a daylight ride into downtown Donaldsonville a designated Great River Road city. Started towards Baton Rouge along the river road. The name river road is somewhat misleading since you can't see the river for the levees.

The scenery kept shifting from industrial to beautiful homes and very poor areas all peppered with middle class neighborhoods. Crossed over to the east side and actually saw the river from the bridge, before the day was over crossed at least five times, great bridges. Continued north and the road just kept getting better, bayous, forests, swamps, and small towns. Wandered several miles from the river but still on scenic byways also designated hurricane evacuation routes.

Passed one of those areas were everybody owns at least ten cars that don't run and they keep them all in the front yard half hidden in the weeds. Shortly after saw an old pick-up pulling out of a side road towing a trailer with two wrecked cars. I had to wonder if he was hauling them off or taking them home because his yard was two short of its allotment.

Riding north on the Mississippi side of the river under clear skies, 70 degrees, 65 MPH, great road, who cares if you can see the river. Crossed back into Louisiana to see CE's brother who was busy trying to move his companies equipment out of the flood area. Buck is the younger brother but there is no denying that they are related. On down the road stopped and met CE's Mom and sister at there homes in the very north east corner of the state. We had a nice visit and got the required pictures before heading on down the road. We are in for the night in Clarksdale Missouri just east of the river.

From a motorcycle you have time to look around and take in the sights, sounds, smells, and scenery that surrounds you. We never fail to find roads that are totally off the beaten path waving to people on the porch or mowing the yard. I know that some of these roads rarely see a tourist much less six motorcycle s with Arizona license plates. We are very fortunate to explore these areas off the tourist track, known only to those that live or have business in the area.

Here is a link to our approximate route today, minus some of the side roads, hope it works.

http://goo.gl/maps/GPDX

DAY 4 MAY 5

Headed out this morning with the hope of finding the southern end of the Mississippi at Venice LA. Stayed on 10 into New Orleans then south on state route 23 headed down the peninsula towards the end of the road and that all important sign “Begin Great River Road”. While it looks short on the map it is actually a long ways to the end of the road. We made it to the Welcome To Venice sign but fell a few miles short of the river road sign. Turns out that the last few miles of roadway haven’t been raised yet and the already high river was flowing over it.
Had lunch at a Subway next to the levee, after lunch walked to the top of the levee and watched large ocean going transports negotiating the river. The road is slightly reminiscent of the road to the keys; you have the river to the east and the gulf to the west.
Headed back north and knew we were in trouble with rush hour rapidly approaching. Managed to stay off any highways and made it to highway 18 the river road along the south side of the Mississippi. Drove along the river but you couldn’t see it for the levees that border the river this far south.
In for the night in Donaldsonville, an old Louisiana town with a large historic district and a great history, drove downtown for dinner at a great local place recommended by the desk clerk.
I’m going to try to start posting some pictures and maps of our routes tomorrow.

Day 3 May 4 Happy B-day Genna

The days drift by They don't have names
None of the streets here look the same
And there're so many quiet places
And smilin' eyes match the smilin' faces
Chorus:
And i have found me a home
I have found me a home
You can have the rest
of everything i own'cause
i have found me a home
Jimmy Buffett

Feeling pretty good on a typical day three. The first day or two you are just getting used to being on the bike all day again. Then settling in to a couple of days of being with each other and away from home. Then day three hits and suddenly your butt fits the seat, your knees aren't aching, walking feels less comfortable than your bike, and you don't care where you are. I have found me a home.

Made about 420 today still on I-10 but what a change. The greenery of east Texas giving way to miles of rice paddies and bayous in west Louisiana. Stopped at a Harley dealer in Lake Charles for a minor repair to Jan's bike and were met with true southern hospitality. It was an old school shop with the owner on site in an old metal building off the beaten track. Repair was quickly made and we continued down the road.

In for the night just west of Baton Rouge, should easily make it to Venice LA tomorrow then start north up the Great River Road. Although the scenery today was great I'm looking forward to two lane roads that don't run for miles in a straight line. Ended the day with a cold one and a fish dinner at a local sea food place next door to our hotel.

I must say Happy Birthday to my daughter, Genna thanks for your continued patience with me for missing your birthday again. I did talk Jan into changing the dates for the fall ride so I can be home for the birth of my grandchild.
Love You, dad

Day 2 May 3

Headed out of Van Horn, right back on Interstate 10 for the day. The weather did cooperate and rode all day in 60 degree temps under clear skies. I-10 is very well maintained with very little traffic, I drove for 135 miles without passing more than five or six vehicles. Traffic did turn heavy when we hit San Antonio during evening rush hour but we made it through and out the east side.

Currently stopped for the night in Seguin Texas twenty or thirty miles east of San Antonio. We should be in Louisiana tomorrow and Venice by lunch Thursday then the adventure begins. For now I'm just enjoying riding down the road with friends.

DAY 1 MAY 2, 2011

Well here we are again off for parts unknown. We plan at this time is to make a quick run to New Orleans then take a slow ride up the Great River Road along the Mississippi River.

We left friends and family behind at Dennys and started south on 17 then onto the 10. It didn't really feel like the start of a new trip even though the bike was loaded with all the right stuff. Thirty miles later we were passing Firebird Lake and I looked in the rear view mirror right behind me were five great friends with the sky a beautiful blue. I realized we had the next three weeks to ride anywhere we want, oh yea it's on, I'm ready to roll down the road. To spend our days exploring this great country, meeting interesting people and just enjoying each others company. Life with your buddies just doesn't get any better. Yes it was just interstate 10 but it is much better than I-40 with less wind, trucks, and potholes.

Stopped for the night in Van Horn Texas roughly 575 miles today. The last hour or so well after dark almost no traffic on the road stars in the sky. That's it for today two hours later here and want to get a decent start in the morning.