DAY 15 AND 16 GREAT ROADS, GOODBYE JB

DAY 15

Left about the usual time suited up with jackets under partially cloudy skies and temps in the 50’s. We were soon in Missouri on route 160 a beautiful two lane road crossing the southern portion of the state east and west. Took a break at a small store to ask about a detour sign we had just passed and the clerk said the detour was about fifty miles, or we could go two blocks through a residential area and be back on the road in half a mile! This proves the old adage you meet the nicest people on a motorcycle or the adage all gas station clerks had dads, grandpas or uncles that ride.

Made it to Branson and met up with Susie for great barbeque at a place called Shorty Smalls with a waitress that was a ringer for Berta on the old Two and a Half Men  both in personality and looks. JB headed home with Susie after dinner with a promise to meet us in the morning and guide us to his house.

DAY 16

Just like an old friend
Putting me on my feet again
Giving me back my pride then
Letting me go
Just like an old friend
Putting me in my place again
Giving me back my hope then

Letting me know that he's an old friend

We won't talk for a year or two
Maybe when we do we won't say much
Even so we know that out of mind is never out of touch

Nik Kershaw

Visited JB and Susie’s new place after a late start then headed south on 65 for Harrison Arkansas. It was hard to leave JB behind as he brings a needed element to our group or at least to my psyche.

 Left still southbound on Route 7 a twisting two lane through the Ozarks running back and forth for mile after mile. The road is lightly travelled following the contour of the land much of it posted at 60 with curves posted from 20 to 45 although theY could be taken much faster on two wheels. Never put a jacket on and never got warm all day, a perfect day for riding on super roads. Stopped for the night in Hot Springs due west of Little Rock and the boyhood home of Bill Clinton.

Checked in to a biker friendly Best Western with a bike wash station full of supplies, a free towel and bike road map along with picnic tables under a shade tree that are perfectly situated for a post ride beer.

DAY 13 "THE TRACE" DAY 14 WALKING IN MEMPHIS

DAY 13

It was a good day, headed out late after waiting for the fog to lift this morning. That was ok since I got to bed late watching a Man From U.N.C.L.E. golden oldie on tv. Headed north and found another beautiful road through the Talladega National Forest. I never get tired of smooth roads crowded right to the shoulder with trees then opening up into small towns with large farms on the outskirts. Finally jumped on a divided road to get us to the Natchez Trace but ended up on a narrow two lane winding back and forth for miles before getting to the trace. I’m amazed how well the county roads are maintained, they have almost all been in great shape, smooth pavement, no  billboards, in fact almost no signs at all including how far to the next town. Someday we will come back and ride the entire 444 miles of the trace, a road similar to the Blue Ridge. (CLICK FOR INFO) We have ridden Trace two times but still fail to have covered all of it. We stopped at the Meriwether Lewis grave site along the Trace next to the log cabin where he is believed to have committed suicide. In his 36 years he managed to explore the west as head of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, serve as a secretary to the president and become governor of the Louisiana Territory. 

I've also noticed that most of the southern states appear to be lacking in the teaching of general life skills, I don’t know if this is a school curriculum issue or a funding issue. We have noticed that many squirrels, possums, armadillos, snakes, deer and one alligator never received any training in how to safely check for traffic before crossing the street.

DAY 14

W.C. Handy
Won't you look down over me
Yeah, I got a first class ticket
But I'm as blue as a boy can be

Then I'm walking in Memphis
I was walking with my feet ten feet off of Beale
Walking in Memphis
But do I really feel the way I feel?

I saw the ghost of Elvis on Union Avenue
Followed him up to the gates of Graceland
Then I watched him walk right through

Now, security did not see him
They just hovered round his tomb
But there's a pretty little thing
Waiting for the King
And she's down in the jungle room

When I was walking in Memphis
I was walking with my feet ten feet off of Beale
Walking in Memphis
But do I really feel the way I feel?

Marc Cohn

Short day today trying to stay away from the terrible weather plaguing so much of this part of the country. Started with a quick run to Memphis where we spent a few hours walking Beale street down by the river front. This is the birthplace of American blues and still very much alive with music along with the ever present tourist trap souvenir shops.

Left Memphis headed north on more green dotted scenic roads stopping for the night a hundred miles up the road. Managed to stay dry all day riding under cool cloudy skies dressed appropriately and looking good. Also posted new pictures.

Do you remember those days hanging out
At the village green?
Engineer boots, leather jackets
And tight blue jeans
Drop a dime in the box play the
Song about New Orleans
Cold beer, hot lights
My sweet romantic teenage nights

Billy Joel

Yea there’s something about leather jackets, jeans, boots, and Harleys that make us feel young again until the aches and pains start or we get to close to a mirror. Finished the day with some good laughs, a good meal, and a cup of coffee in the hotel lobby.

DAY 11 IT WAS BOUND TO HAPPEN, DAY 12 WANDERING AIMLESSLY

DAY 11 WEATHER

Waited until late to leave do to the weather and when the rain had slowed to an acceptable level suited up in rain gear and headed out. Noon Saturday (day 11) was the halfway point in our trip and the first time we needed rain gear. About an hour down the road the rain had stopped, the temp warmed and we were getting out of our gear and heading down another two lane road surrounded by trees and farms. After lunch checked the weather trying to make it between storms and stay dry. Jake pulled over to stop under an awning when the sky opened up while we watched it from under shelter. Once again it was time for rain gear and heading north into Alabama. Stopped for the night in Phenix City AL across the river from Columbus GA and Fort Benning. Walked to dinner and had good service from a waitress, bartender, busgirl, patio waitress, cooks assistant, smart aleck, good time for all. While heading for the hotel we became separated into two groups and the leader who had made it to the hotel was concerned about the rest of us. He approached a gentleman at the hotel  and asked "can you help my friends find the hotel". The gentleman asked "where are your friends?" and was told "I don't know" this led to a perplexed look and a simple answer of "No".

DAY 12

Left this morning with our usual vague plan to stay on green dot, scenic, roads heading north and maybe a bit west. After all we are more than half way through the trip and it's time to sloooowly turn westward. Managed to avoid the interstate and found some great roads putting on over 300 miles to get from Phenix, AL to Fayetteville, TN where we are in for the night.

Once more it was all green trees, farms, and smooth well maintained roads all day. We did go through a few towns with an excessive number of poorly timed stop lights and heavy traffic for a Sunday. At the end of the day it was all great, everybody in and safe.

I had a burger tonight but have managed to have fresh gulf fish on three occasions and tried a southern oddity of boiled peanuts on one of our breaks today, not my favorite but not to bad. Finished the day with a piece of blueberry, lemon meringue pie, also a local thing.

As always it continues THE JOURNEY IS THE DESTINATION.

DAY 9 BAYOUS AND BATTLESHIPS, DAY 10 WHITE SAND AND STOPLIGHTS

DAY 9
Left the hotel this morning and headed back onto the back roads of the bayous along the gulf. This soon led us into Mobile and we decided to tour the USS Alabama Battleship. Didn't do an organized tour preferring to wander the ship aimlessly for a few hours, very impressive. A short time later we were back on two lane roads along the gulf headed into Florida. Stopped at a Harley shop as Jake's bike needed some attention and they advised the bike would have to stay the night at Harley Urgent Care.

Today we actually stopped at a tourist attraction and for us that is unusual. I'm often asked by people not on the ride why we don't stop at more places. The answer is fairly simple for me, attractions are great and destination rides are fun but I'm in a hurry. Right or wrong I want to see how many of the great roads in this country I can travel on two wheels. The day is no good until we are moving down a new road, exhaust rumbling, music blaring, smiling from ear to ear. The people we meet along the way from Subway clerks to kids in old pick-ups make up the sights and attractions for me.

 Hear 'em singing happy birthday
Better think about the wish I make
This year gone by
Ain't been a piece of cake.

Every day's a revolution
Pull it together and it comes undone
Just one more candle and a trip around the sun.

I'm just hanging on while this old world keeps spinning
And it's good to know it's out of my control.
If there's one thing that I've learned from all this living
Is that it wouldn't change a thing if I let go.

No you never see it coming,
Always wind up wondering where it went.

Only time will tell
If it was time well spent.
It's another revelation,

Celebrating what I should have done
With these souvenirs of my trip around the sun.

Jimmy Buffett

It works for me I don't ask anyone to buy into it but so far they keep riding down the road with me.

DAY 10

Left the hotel, I led down to the water no real directions just figured from where we were southeast would be good. Left Jake and Bruce at hotel waiting for Jake's bike with a plan for them to get on I-10 and meet us later in the day, that worked fine by the way. Soon found ourselves on Pensacola island, hotels, time shares, then 25 miles of beautiful white sand on both sides of the road. Stopped at a parking lot so I could walk out to the water and at least touch the gulf, Krys would understand. Finally left the island and just continued along the gulf with a mix of busy traffic, long stop lights and slow speeds mixed with wide open roads. The open roads were a mix of beach, forest, beautiful homes and the occasional desolation still left from Katrina. 

Finally it was time to turn north towards I-10, never actually got on it, to meet Jake and Bruce and find a place for the night. A quick look at the map showed a green dotted road right through the middle of Tate's Hell National Forest a great ride, stopped in Quincy Florida for night.

Legend of Tate's Hell

 Armed with a shotgun and accompanied by his hunting dogs, he journeyed into the swamp in search of a cow. His dogs took off chasing a panther, and he lost his gun in the mud. Tate was lost in the swamp for seven days and nights. He went into the Dwarf Cypress stand to escape the relentless bugs, and fell asleep against the trees that were protected by the Indian’s magic. He awoke when bitten by a snake and ran blindly thru the swamp, delirious from the bite and from drinking the murky waters. Finally he came to a clearing near Carrabelle, living only long enough to murmur the words, "My name is Cebe Tate, and I just came through Hell!" 

This local oral lore of Cebe Tate's adventure took place in 1875 and ever since, the area has been known as Tate's Hell, the legendary and forbidden swamp.

DAY 7 INCIDENT AT 1324 HOURS, DAY 8 BILOXI

DAY 7
Headed back south to Galveston and rode the island east leaving by way of ferry boat. Once again the crew placed us on the leeward side sheltered from the wind. This was a larger boat with enough time to go upstairs and snap a few pictures before rejoining the bike. The "incident" occurred at 1:24 pm when we finally left Texas for Louisiana while traveling a narrow two lane road heading into the bayous.

The back roads run from refineries to single wide trailers on stilts, throw into the mix some nice homes and even schools all on stilts. We soon got deeper into the bayou finally stopping for a break at a one pump store and gas station. A couple of gator hunters were filling up the gas tank on their air boat before heading out for the day. They attempted to give us directions in a creole accent that was so thick I only understood about every third word. It was probably a good thing that we didn't really need directions, theirs did translate to something about a dead tree and a large bridge but I missed the rest. Deeper into the bayou we managed to spot three gators, two fairly large and a small one on the roadway. There was also turtles, possums, and all kinds of road kill wouldn't want to ride this at night. Ended the day a little later than we planned and farther inland to get away from the fully booked hotels.

DAY 8


Left the hotel this morning, north then east would quickly take us around New Orleans so we turned south. Road south for a while before turning northeast towards Baton Rouge skirting the city before getting on I-10 then I-12 to go north of New Orleans. Once in Mississippi headed back south onto the coast road turning eat right along the beach. This area of Mississippi is completely different than the bayou area with white sand beaches on our right and beautiful resorts to our left. There is still evidence of Katrina with empty cement slabs were buildings once stood but at least all the debris is cleaned up and most areas are rebuilt.

Down around Biloxi
Pretty girls are dancin' in the sea
They all look like sisters in the ocean
The boy will fill his pail with salty water
And the storms will blow from off towards New Orleans

Sun shines on Biloxi
Air is filled with vapors from the sea
Boy will dig a pool beside the ocean
He sees creatures from his dream underwater
And the sun will set from off towards New Orleans

Jimmy Buffett

Stopped for the night on the north end of Biloxi, a pretty city with great beaches a variety people bordered on the north by woods. It also the place where Jimmy Buffett got his start. Back on the coast tomorrow.

DAY 5 THREE SISTERS, DAY 6 FINALLY THE GULF

DAY 5
Left this morning for Leakey TX to ride the three sisters, a collection of farm roads popular with motorcyclists; click the following link for a description (click here). Met up with fellow retiree Louie who now calls Texas home and proceeded to make the 100 mile loop riding all three sisrters before heading on east. It is a good ride but perhaps over stated in the literature about degree of difficulty. The authors have obviously never ridden Bear Tooth Pass with thousand foot drop-offs, no guard rails, in a snow storm, ah but that was last year. Ended the day in Pleasonton were an older lady was talking to a few of us about her riding in her younger days. Thinking about her the next morning as we waved goodbye prior to leaving I couldn't help but think about Neil Young's song Unknown Legend.

 She used to work in a diner

Never saw a woman look finer
I used to order just to watch
her float across the floor
She grew up in a small town
Never put her roots down
Daddy always kept movin',
so she did too.

Somewhere on a desert highway
She rides a Harley-Davidson
Her long blonde hair
flyin' in the wind
She's been runnin' half her life
The chrome and steel she rides
Collidin' with
the very air she breathes
The air she breathes.

You know it ain't easy

You got to hold on
She was an unknown legend
in her time
Now she's dressin' two kids
Lookin' for a magic kiss
She gets the far-away look
in her eyes.

I don't know what her younger days were like but she had that far away look in her eyes.

DAY 6

Headed south towards Corpus Christi under overcast skies and temps that were just cool enough for a jacket, in other words, great riding weather. Tried to see how much gas we could us out of the tank before stopping just as three bikes ran out, yours truly included. Made a quick stop at Harley Dealer, oil for some, t-shirts for others, Gold Wing riders just standing in a group uncomfortably. Finally the gulf waters of Padre Island as we crossed over the bridge into a different culture.

Yeah, That's why it's still a mystery to me,
Why some people live like they do.
So many nice things happening out there,
Never even seen the clues.
Whoa, but we're doin' fine, we can travel and rhyme.
I know we've been doing our part.
Got a Caribbean soul I can barely control
and some Texas hidden here in my heart.

JIMMY BUFFETT

Stopped for lunch at a little local place for fresh fish and shrimp and couldn't help but notice that everyone in the place from staff to customers to owners had a little different mind set. They still had that Texas attitude mixed with some laid back island attitude giving off a whole different vibe. Left the islands via a short ferry ride in a stiff wind that had been with us all day. The ride was only a few minutes and the staff put us on the leeward side of the superstructure sheltered from the wind. Continuing along the coast for the rest of the day it was a never ending series of refineries and docks, not the most attractive area. We had to go north a bit to find a motel that wasn't full of oil workers but ended the day in Alvin some 400 riding miles from breakfast.

Chuck

DAY 3 BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, DAY 4 LANGTRY TEXAS

Left Alpine this morning headed south on beautiful two lane towards Big Bend Park. The road was posted at 70 MPH with numerous curves posted with warning signs at 30. That's a 40 MPH change in a 100 yards but the warning signs are very conservative and most of the curves could be taken much closer to 70. Big Bend is on the border between the US and Mexico so other than the loop road through the park the roads all end before the border.

The park is rugged high desert with peaks rising thousands of feet above the desert floor very desolate and awe inspiring. Rode up to what we thought was a view point nestled in between mountains and several miles in found a lodge, restaurant and gift shop at the very end of the road. Left the park at the east end heading north to Ft Stockton so we are just down the road from last night but a great days drive.

DAY 4
Jan, had mentioned that he had heard that the road to Langtry Texas, former home of Judge Roy Bean was a good stop. Looking at the map we saw that a trip to Langtry was a perfect start to the day with a trip to the museum and original bar  where both drinking and court were held. Click Judge Roy Bean  for more info. Continued along the Rio Grande crossing over the Pecos before turning north and stopping for the night in Uvalde, Texas.




Well those drifter's days are past me now
I've got so much more to think about
Deadlines and commitments
What to leave in, what to leave out

Against the wind
I'm still runnin' against the wind
I'm older now but still runnin' against the wind
Well I'm older now and still runnin'
Against the wind
Against the wind
Against the wind
Bob Seger

Day 4 a thousand plus down the road, great scenery, great two lanes, good friends and still runnin against the wind.

DAY 1-2 APRIL 2015 THE NINTH ANNUAL GUYS RIDE

Day 1

Left this morning heading for

Texas determined to avoid interstate highways and we were partially successful. Didn't make Texas stopped for night in Deming  NM  but did avoid interstate highways.  North of Safford we turned east  at Guthrie onto the 78 into New Mexico. This road quickly turned into 30 mph speed limits with 15 mph curves rising into tall pines. Passed the continental divide  at an elevation above 6000 feet turned south on highway 180 on to Deming. Good start to the trip with great roads and beautiful weather to help us settle in to the routine. You know the one, waking up in a different place each morning  looking at a map for interesting roads and heading out to explore.

Day 2

Actually had a goal for today to meet JB in Alpine Texas due north of Big Bend National Park. Spent the first 100 miles on I-10 then just north of El Paso got back off and spent the rest of the day on great two lane roads. The roads ran fairly straight with few curves and bends but were smooth, fast, and very lightly traveled. The high desert was very green with vistas for 100 miles in any direction bordered by tall cliffs and plateaus rising in the distance. Ate at a small dinner, the only open business in 150 miles food was mediocre location sometimes is everything.

The best part of these long lonely roads is the time to think, with the overly busy lives we have had lately it’s great to have time to just listen to the wind, enjoy the scenery, and let your mind wander. After hours of this you find yourself solidifying decisions and clearing out the cobwebs in your mind soon you are just relaxing and enjoying the ride.

Alpine surprised us with a university, a rock collector convention and several hotels without vacancies but all is well in for the night and headed to Big Bend Park tomorrow.