DAY 21 ONE MORE NIGHT ON THE ROAD

Clear skies, pleasant temperatures, smoth roads ending the trip with a perfect day of riding. Headed south out of Belen and soon found ourselves back on 60. Followed a new road (for me), route 14,  into Reserve for lunch at Jo-Jo's Canteen.

Map of days ride CLICK HERE approximate from cell phone.

This hotel room got a lot of stuff
A laundry bag and a shoe shine cloth
Thirty-two hangers and a touch-tone phone
Well a light that comes on when I'm not home
I ain't home, I ain't home

You better leave a message cause I ain't home

Oh this ole' hotel's alright with me

They pay the postage if you loose the key

This hotel has got a lot of stuff

But I do believe I have had enough

Call my baby said, don't you pout

I'm packin' my bags and I'm checking out

Just as soon as you hang up the telephone

Stick a candle in the window I'm comin' home

Comin' home, comin home

Stick a candle in the window, I'm comin' home

Jimmy Buffett

One last night talking about the trip, thinking about next spring and slightly delaying the trip home. All of us are ready for that final few hours and to see the ones we left behind.

DAY 20 ALMOST OVER

Today's route was pretty simple but included lots of miles of two lane roads in three different states. Left Guyman on US 54 to 385 to 60 to 47 into Belen and done for the day.

Started off under cloudy skies but weather gradually warmed, clouds disappeared, road turned smooth, the miles just rolled by. Mile after mile in weather just cool enough to require a jacket through undulating hills on smooth road, I felt like I could ride forever. The only thing slowing us down was the necessity for fuel and food.

Finished the day in Belen south of Albuquerque with a walk over to Penny's Dinner, sat at the counter watching a cook fix our dinner at an impressive rate of speed. He must not have been entirely human, but then we weren't to far from Roswell.  

DAY 18 AND 19

DAY 18 RAIN

Waited at the hotel using a late check-out option until the rain stopped. wait it never stopped.

After watching the storm on radar continue to circle above us and with nothing to do at the hotel I was getting antsy. 

Finally about noon we decided to throw on rain gear and get riding. Route was easy, west on 18 south on 83. Rain and wind not a fun combo the wind was blowing hard from the side helping the rain find its way into any opening that leads to bare skin. Towards the end of the day the sky turned to light puffy clouds the weather warmed and the sun came out allowing us to dry before reaching the hotel. This was a plus for the hotel judging by the mess we left the sole employee of a Subway at lunch. Riding is always better than sitting around and riding in a storm really wakes the senses. Oh, did  I mention it rained.

DAY 19

After leaving JB our tentative plan had been to stay north and turn south in either Colorado or Utah. After watching the weather and listening to the brimstone and fire from the doomsday (weather) channel alternate plans had to be considered.The reality of tornado's to our east and heave snow to our west left us with one decent option. We exercised our option and headed straight south on 83 under cloudy cool skies with temps in the low 50's. After lunch the weather warmed and we finally finished the day in 80 degree temps stopping for the night in Guymon Oklahoma.

It was a great ride today watching storm cells develop rapidly to either side while threading the middle at 75 mph shivering in the morning to a mandatory stop to put all the warm gear away in the afternoon. The road was straight, for the most part, but the varying winds and bouncing around from the cattle trucks going the other way kept everyone alert, fun stuff.

One finally observation about two lane roads in the rain. You occasionally get behind a semi throwing up a ton of spray coating your visor and windshield so that you can barely see anything. You keep creeping out into the opposing traffic lane to try to pass only to find at the last second a car without any lights on hurtling towards you. All while the do/don't pass lines are washed out in the rain, sends the old adrenal gland into overdrive! 

DAY 17 MAY 16, 2017

The wind and rain had pounded the area all night but the day was looking like beautiful weather. Headed southwest to Sioux City Iowa were we said a sad goodbye to JB. We then turned west and headed on as a half dozen.

Our roads just got better all day, not twisty roads but beautiful scenery with green grasses and farm equipment working the fields. All the while we rode in shirt sleeves under partially cloudy skies, absolutely gorgeous.

Map of the day-  CLI CK HERE

After dinner we sometimes sit around and talk about our past careers, since we all have that in common. It always reminds me of Springsteen's Glory Days.

Now I think I'm going down to the well tonight 
and I'm going to drink till I get my fill 
And I hope when I get old I don't sit around thinking about it 
but I probably will 
Yeah, just sitting back trying to recapture 
a little of the glory of, well time slips away 
and leaves you with nothing mister but 
boring stories of glory days 

Glory days well they'll pass you by 
Glory days in the wink of a young girl's eye 
Glory days, glory days 

The other night after dinner JB began talking about the sand running out of the hour glass and how it seemed to be running faster the lower the top half became. I think that is the reason we're all here, that sand is running faster and faster. We are out here trying to squeeze every last bit out of every last last grain reliving some youth on high speed and two wheels.

In the future, hopefully along time down the road, we can sit around trying to recapture a little of these new glory days. 

DAY 16 MAY 15, 2017

We rode for about 85 miles we stopped and checked into a motel.

Thanks for reading.

Actually, waited out the rain and weather until lunch time then rode about .2 miles to a Subway for lunch. Plans were to ride north west for a while before turning southwest into the corner of South Dakota. Needed to stop at a Honda shop to have CE's bike tweaked after last weeks repair a few things had worked loose. It was quickly tightened with a guarantee that it should reach Phoenix without a problem.

Al found a dealer easily by consulting his GWRRA book.  Goldwing Will Require Repair Again which is a good guide book to carry with you for the wing riders. Al insists it stands for GoldWing Road Riders Association, I'm not sure....

Last couple of days Al has gone in to negotiate a hotel price, we try to send in one, two max so as not to overwhelm a clerk. Not sure if it's his skill or if the big hairless guy scares the clerks but the rates have been great.

I on the other hand excel in talking to people in restaurants, last night was free dinner for all of us, tonight was a free round of drinks from a fellow rider that averages 1100 miles a year and was envious of our ride.

DAY 14-15

Left Iron Mountain Michigan with plans of visiting Lambeau Field and finishing the day somewhere south. We actually ended the day in Oshkosh which is about 140 miles from where we started, that would have made a easy short day but...

After looking at the map we managed to turn 140 into 270 without a problem and still finished the day with a trip to the laundromat.

Two lane roads completely devoid of traffic started our day. Beautiful riding varying from thick forests to open meadows and the occasional farm.  The hillsides, when visible, were alive with at least a dozen different shades of green from all the beautiful and varied foliage.

Absolutely gorgeous riding until we pulled into Green Bay were traffic got heavy. Went into the team shop for a couple of the guys to buy souvenirs then jumped on the freeway for the short ride to Oshkosh. The laundry was typical for a small college town, well used with kids putting 50 pounds of clothes into a 25 pound rated machine.  

CLICK HERE MAP OF DAY 14

DAY 15

Checking the map at breakfast found some interesting looking roads heading west across Wisconsin towards Minnesota. Had a vague plan of trying to ride through Preston MN a town of about 1200 people. I spent the first four years of my life there and still have a few leftover memories of that time.

Road into town and a few of the streets looked somewhat familiar, I'll have to return with more information to find the old house. The old courthouse was torn down and replaced sometime in the early sixties, Dad's old hardware store was long gone from main street. Stopped and talked to one local but although he looked the part he wasn't born when I left, oh well another time.

Continued on finally stopping for the day about 350 miles down the road in Mankato MN, another town with some personal significance. I was actually born in the hospital here but left afterwards. Looked for the statue commemorating my birth but couldn't find it. The desk clerk must have been new and was no help either as he didn't believe such a monument existed.

Last night at the hotel there were a lot of kids, most of which were in town to visit relatives today on Mother's Day. My favorite mothers were on my mind all day, my wife, my two daughters, and the memories of my own mother and mother-in-law.

Watching all these kids at the hotel made me really miss my grandkids and think about how they will remember me. Suddenly the answer came to me out of the sky, XM Satellite radio channel 24 to be specific. Ok it's motorcycles not boats but the sentiment is the same.

I never used to miss the chance to climb up on his knee
And listen to the many tales of life upon the sea
We'd go sailing back on Barkentines we'd talk of things he did
Tomorrow just a day away for the Captain and the kid

His world had gone from sailing ships to raking mom's backyard
He never could adjust to land although he tried so hard
We both were growing older then and wiser with the years
That's when I came to understand the course his heart still steers

Jimmy Buffet

DAY 12-13 MAY 11TH AND 12TH

DAY 12

Left Sault Ste Marie and shortly found ourselves crossing over the Saint Lawrence Seaway followed by US Customs for a perfunctory passport check. Wander back and forth before crossing over the bridge into Mackinaw City. The bridge is often closed for wind and a portion of it is open steel grate causing the bike to wobble back and forth as you ride, lots of fun.

Rode south on the Lake Huron coast, part of the Lake Huron Circle ride, beautiful two lane roads. Turned inland on another scenic drive finishing the day in Gaylord MI.

Click here for map 

DAY 13

Left Gaylord and headed west to the coast of Lake Michigan, part of the Lake Michigan Great Circle route. Our objective was county road 119 also know as the Tunnel of Trees. This was a highly recommended "best of the state" motorcycle road. It was empty of traffic, narrow, in good shape, and lived up to its hype with beautiful views interspersed with "tunnels of trees". The farther south we were in Michigan the more "spring" had found the trees we were now seeing leaves but not quite summer foliage. Through judicious fuel use and careful time management I was fortunate to be in the lead on the Tunnel of Trees ride. When we finally stopped for fuel there was a restaurant in the parking lot appropriately called "Restaurant" 

where we had a great lunch. Finished the day with a trip over the bridge northbound a photo op and a few hundred miles of route 2 in the "UP".

CLICK FOR MAP

DAY 10 AND 11 MAY 9TH AND 10TH

DAY 10

Quick walk to the Harley shop and I bought something I absolutely do not need, a new Harley shirt. Young lady said that we were the first riders of the season. Stopped in old downtown Thunder Bay but still missed a lot of the sights along the waterfront which leaves us a reason to return, If you explore everything the first time you have no reason to return.

Rode Canada 17 all day, also known as the Kings Highway and part of the great circle route around Lake Superior. Stayed on it all day, very few towns very little traffic, NO motorcycles. Finally found a hotel in Marathon that had five rooms and we only needed four. After a fairly cold day and the heavy clouds ended up with pizza in the lobby under the watchful eye of Norman Bates.

May 9th also holds personal significance as May 9th 1969 is the anniversary of my first date with my wife. That summer of 69 holds so many memories that thankfully have not faded with time.

To this day when I hear that song
I see you standin' there all night long
Discount shades, store bought tan
Flip flops and cut-off jeans

Somewhere between that setting sun
I'm on fire and born to run
You looked at me and I was done
And we're, we're just getting started

I was singin' to you, you were singin' to me
I was so alive, never been more free
Fired up my daddy's lighter and we sang, oh

Stayed there 'til they forced us out
And took the long way to your house
I can still hear the sound of you sayin' don't go

When I think about you, I think about seventeen
I think about my old jeep
I think about the stars in the sky
Funny how a melody sounds like a memory
Like the soundtrack to a July Saturday night, 

Eric Church

Thanks Eric, I know you remember too.

DAY 11

Left the hotel heading east along the lake under cloudy skies and cool temps. Beautiful views of the lake and forests. The pine trees look good but the white trunked birch trees haven't been informed that it's spring so they are still bare.

Al pulled over in White River so we could get a picture of the Winnie-the-Pooh statue in his home town.

Stopped at a view point on a bluff over looking the lake for a group photo and noticed if we crawled over the guard rail we could climb down the cliff face to the water. Al says he has pictures but I'm not telling on anybody.

 Pulled into the first big town of the day, actually the first large city of several days Sault St Marie and checked in for the night. Across the border back to US tomorrow. 

DAY 9 MAY 8TH A DESTINATION?

Headed straight north out of Rice Lake to Duluth MN then onto Highway 61 towards Canada. We rode a portion of Route 61 south of here a few years ago after leaving the headwaters of the Mississippi River. Highway 61 always brings to mind the Dylan album HIGHWAY 61 REVISITED.

Yes I think it can be easily done
Just set up some bleachers out in the sun
and take him out on Highway 61.

North on 61 across the border skirting the northwestern portion of Lake Superior through more of the small towns we have grown so accustomed to. Wildlife along the sides of the road from deer to eagles along with seagulls. The weather is running about 10 degrees below normal for this time of the year so it was a bit chilly but tolerable. There were shadows today but the high thin clouds made them fainter than usual.

About 2 PM Arizona time we reached Thunder Bay which was our destination. Why Thunder Bay Ontario? No one knows the answer to that, just because I guess, when you leave the family behind you have to have some sort of destination even though you don't have a plan for getting there.

Google maps says it is about 2000 miles from my house to Thunder Bay, we were able to add almost a thousand to that estimate and plan to add about the same on the way back.

So 61 to Thunder Bay leaving tomorrow on Canada 17 which is known as the Canada portion of the Lake  Superior great circle route. We are going to take our time and should be back in the UP of Michigan sometime on the 10th?

DAY 8 BACK ROADS AND BIKES

Quick trip to do laundry and then northbound. It seems like every time we stopped today we decided on a new route but ended up spending most of the day on the Great River Road along the Mississippi. We have ridden the river road on the west side several years ago but this year found us on the east side. Stayed away from main roads by riding County  Road F, A, AA and a few others.

All the small towns were busy with flea markets, garage sales, fishing, and 100's of motorcycles taking advantage of a great spring Sunday. For us just another day exploring the backroads of America. Locals were dressed in t-shirts, we stayed in jackets, clear skies temps in the 60's.

Yeah tomorrow I'm takin’ me fishin’
Hang a sign on the door of my life
Tell the world that I’ve gone missin’
An’ I won’t be back for a while
I’m so tired of only wishin’
I could leave my troubles behind
I wanna be front porch rockin’
With a big sun droppin’ in a blue sky
Kick back an’ get high
On the livin’ part of life

Eric Church

So true Eric, leave it behind to find where you are and what's important.

Ended the day in Rice Lake Wisconsin fighting waves of nostalgia. My parents lived here in the late 40's after my Dad came home from the war. I listened to their stories of living in a trailer, walking across the street to fish out of the lake, celebrating with friends. Ended the day in a "Supper Club" next door to the hotel that has been open since 1934. I had little trouble imagining my folks having dinner and a drink while dancing to the band in the very room I had dinner in, waves of nostalgia.

DAY 7 WHY WE RIDE

Left this morning heading northeast then due north to 20. Following a rough area in a construction zone pulled off to reattach a kick stand spring and after that the day day just got better.

After a quick fix rode a short way north for lunch and after lunch decided to continue on north on an unplanned route. We soon found ourselves in Independence Iowa, a small town that is still thriving, all the old downtown stores open, brick roads, people out and about on a beautiful Saturday. There were kids in yards waving, people out on the sidewalks. If you changed out the cars and gas stations for 50's vintage everything else would be straight from a movie.

The day continued to excel with great two lane unplanned roads with beautiful weather, good friends, smooth roads. Ended up on the river road along the Mississippi before calling it a night in Onalaska Wisconsin.

Babe, there's no red lights or stop signs around for miles,
Just swaying trees, your hair in the breeze, and that smile, and I know
God's working down from that sky blue ceiling,
He made these old country roads for driving and dreaming,
Mine's coming true girl here with you on two lanes of freedom.
Two lanes of freedom.
Two lanes of freedom.
Two lanes of freedom.

Tim Mcgraw

Just one of those days that clicked on all cylinders and reminded me of why we ride.

DAY 6 RIP JOHN PARHAM

Knew we were going to stay around Altoona to give CE time to catch up so booked a second night at the motel. Let them know we wanted the rooms and it was a good thing we did only five rooms left.

Decided to run over to the National Motorcycle Museum while we waited to hear from CE. We were only about 150 miles away so geared up and headed out. Beautiful two lane roads through rolling hills with clear skies and temps in the 60's.

The museum was well worth the ride with over 300 great bikes on display, on a sad note the museum was planning a service for the founder of the museum, and owner of J and P Motorcycle parts, John Parham who had passed away after a battle with cystic fibrosis.

Great ride back with CE there to greet us on arrival followed by a celebratory dinner for CE's return.

Northeast tomorrow.

Kurt Vonnegut quote of the day
"I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different."

DAY 5 MAY 4TH HAPPY BIRTHDAY GENNA

A big HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my oldest daughter who has once again graciously allowed me to miss her birthday for a motorcycle trip.

Quick run this morning to Lincoln Nebraska to get CE's bike looked at. I was advised that the town was not named after Lincoln Hayes from the old Mod Squad 60's TV show. Problems with CE's bike turned out to be more serious than originally thought and the decision, with his blessing, was made to leave him for a day or two.

Earlier in the trip we had entertained the idea of a motorcycle museum in Anamosa Iowa so we headed east with the idea of meeting back up after the bike is repaired.

To much time on I-80 with wind made for a mileage short, wear and tear long afternoon. Now bedded down east of Des Monies with bellies full of barbeque and kinks worked out in the hot tub.

Almost forgot, don't be worried about us and the weather, blue skies and sunshine all day.

DAY 4 SUN, CLOUDS, RAIN

Today started out with a great breakfast at a small bar and restaurant in Hill City. We then headed west on Kansas 24 through some gorgeous country of rolling hills, some planted with spring crops some not. Partially cloudy skies and cool temps had us all dressed in nice warm gear, face shields down. This gives you a feeling of being in a high speed cocoon and with the radio off leaves you alone with your thoughts. This always leads to some interesting conversations with myself. An old friend, Dale, left a comment yesterday quoting one of my favorite authors. On The Road by Jack Kerouac was a favorite book in college, wore out a copy by rereading it several times. This brought to mind other authors that shaped my early ideals besides Kerouac, there was Ginsberg, Dylan, Vonnegut, Hunter Thompson plus so many others,and of course for the girls readings from Rod McKuen coupled with appropriate music.

Back to today, 24 into Manhattan for lunch, backtrack to 77 in rain gear then north to Beatrice Nebraska in for the night.

Rain never got heavy, rain gear felt good blocking a little of the wind. Watching the weather decide on route tomorrow.

DAY 3 May 2nd We Broke It

Started the day with a 90 mile ride up to Dodge City to get CE's bike looked at and it was a good thing we did. The bike was developing a serious brake problem that could not be left unattended. The dealership a combination Honda, Harley dealer was very helpful and got us back on the road same day. Over the years each one of us has at one time or another had to get a repair of some sort. We have been very lucky to find great people at almost every dealership and these unexpected stops lend themselves very well to our no reservations, no destination style of riding.

Left Dodge City north on Kansas 283 stopping in a small Mom and Pop Motel in Hill City Kansas. When we pulled into town we pulled over to figure out the direction to the motel and were greeted by a group of young boys on bicycles that wanted to know all about us. This evolved into being followed to the gas station and motel by three kids on bikes. Thanks to JB filling them in I was soon being pointed at and could hear them say that one is Chuck, JB said he's there leader. I'm pretty sure the tone in their voice was one of disbelief.

DAY 2 May 1st Running On

Today is a pretty easy one to comment on. Left Socorro on US 60, turned north on US 54 to Liberal Kansas.. Ok that about sums it up from a map stand point, but it was so much more. Second day out, routine starting to jell with everyone getting acquainted again and the requisite sharp humor that is only tolerated between friends.

You also have the irony of me leading a gaggle of conservative retired bikers into a town called Liberal! Add to all that, mostly, good road with clear bright blue skies. We did pass five miles of downed power lines with snow on the side of the road a few feet deep and temps in the mid 60's, a great day to be on a bike. Managed to ride a little over 400 again putting us just overe 800 for first couple days.

Looking out at the road rushing under my wheels
Looking back at the years gone by like so many summer fields
In sixty-five I was seventeen and running up one-o-one
I don't know where I'm running now, I'm just running on

Running on - running on empty
Running on - running blind
Running on - running into the sun
But I'm running behind

Jackson Browne

Met JB in Liberal and our group was complete. Desk clerk recommended a good local restaurant (fish tacos in southern Kansas?)and our day was complete.