WOW DAY 31 BRIGHAM TO KANAB

Left Brigham and did a quick blast down I-15, rush hour wasn't an issue. Finally made it to Utah 20 east and immediately started to climb into the pines on a great twisty road. This route soon found us south on 89 heading towards Kanab for the night. Temps got into the 90's right at the end of the day but nothing severe and nothing that a cold beverage couldn't fix.

 Sometimes the lights all shining on me
Other times I can barely see
Lately it occurs to me
What a long strange trip it's be

Truckin' up to Buffalo
Been thinking you got to mellow slow
Takes time, you pick a place to go
Just keep truckin' on

You're sick of hanging around, you'd like to travel
Get tired of travelling you want to settle down
I guess they can't revoke your soul for trying
Get out of the door, light out and look all around

Grateful Dead

It's been a great trip and we could be home tomorrow, tired, hot, fighting rush hour. I don't think so, see you Thursday after one last day and a couple more meals on the road.

DAY 29-30 OMAK-MISSOULA-BRIGHAM

Day 29

Left Omak on Route 155 quickly climbed into the mountains before dropping down to Grand Coulee Dam. Stopped for a picture at the viewpoint and left on 174 then onto route 2 to Spokane.

Then it was time (sadly) to give up the cool mountain roads and start riding interstates to head towards home a little faster. I-90 into Missoula where a trip to the hot tub and a short walk to an eclectic pizza/pasta joint for a great dinner. Finished off dinner with a shared desert and a scoop of ice cream with fresh Huckleberries, what luck they were in season!


Day 30

500 miles today and I'm tired, not hard miles all on interstate. I-90 to I-15 south to Brigham City. Weather was fairly cooperative, left with a temperature of 51 with jackets on and managed to need them for the first several hours before packing them away possible for the last time.

After several weeks of jackets being the norm none of us are ready for the heat that is sure to come in the next few days.

Looking forward to home but I still enjoy the ride and I still can wake up in a bad mood throw a leg over, head down a new road and feel all my worries and cares just melt away.

That first few minutes in the morning with the radio off just listening to the wind and the engine can't help but make you smile and feel all is right with the world.

DAY 28 WILLIAMS LAKE TO OMAK WASHINGTON

Rode south on 97, there you're up to date.

Actually temps varied from cool in the morning to 100 at the Canadian/US border. Scenery from  drop dead gorgeous with a lake or river full of people visible almost all day. Those not in the water were in there cars driving to the water causing traffic delays on the one lane roads.

The closer we got to the border the traffic started to thin and we were soon at the crossing for our last rip through customs. The US Agent waved all of us up at once asked a few simple questions and sent us south with a "welcome back", very easy crossing.

Fifty-five miles down the road decided to call it a day when we spotted at Best Western in Omak, dinner at Roadhouse 97.

DAY 27 SMITHERS TO WILLIAMS LAKE

Just read Ken's he pretty much nailed our day except for the ends.

The end of the Cassiar Highway

The end of hotels with odd names and strange rooms.

The end of looking up during the day to see glaciers.

The end of lonely roads without traffic, Mounties, painted lines or frequently without pavement.

The end of needing a jacket all day.

The end of looking ahead to a new adventure and the beginning of looking towards home.

DAY 26 DEASE LAKE, YUKON TO SMITHERS, BC

Left this morning after having a quick breakfast with food purchased last night at the small grocery store. Headed south on the next leg of the Cassiar Highway along side towering mountain peaks, thick forests, and the occasional glacier in the higher mountain valleys.

With the good also comes the not as good, in this case it was the occasional patch of gravel or dirt, anywhere from ten feet to a half mile that would sneak up on you quickly at 65 or 70. Overall the road was great with the frost heaves evened out with gravel and warning flags.

Pulled into Smithers and they are in the middle of a heat wave like much of the west temps were in the 80's, how do people function in this heat?

 We can now add the Cassiar highway to the roads we have taken and to our ever expanding repertoire of great memories.

DAY 24-25 WHITEHORSE TO DEASE LAKE

Bike was ready before closing Tuesday and we could have pressed on to Watson Lake but for no real gain. Also, we wanted to try a highly rated Yukon Mexican (?) food restaurant along with the appropriate adult beverage, both were excellent.

Day 25 found us on the road before 7 AM with temps  in the 50's and good roads ahead of us. After a few days exploring on foot it felt great to all of us to be back on the bike with a full day of riding ahead of us. Blue skies and smooth roads leading the way and all bikes humming along.

 A few hundred miles down the road turned off the Al-Can and headed south on Route 37. This route is known as the western route and the Cassiar Highway, runs through the Cassiar mountains. Two lane, lightly traveled.

This route had a few areas of construction and one wait of less than five minutes for a pilot car. We also were treated to some of our favorite signs:

Still a great ride with gorgeous scenery, posted 60  or 70 KPH easily ridden 60 or 70 MPH with a few exceptions. One exception was a poorly aligned narrow steel grate bridge already occupied by a semi failing to obey the 20 KPH sign. Shortly before stopping for the night a large wolf was walking down the road and moved into a ditch watching us go by with large yellow spooky eyes.

A great day to be alive and riding, ended in Dease Lake at a large, for the area, hotel of 40 rooms which is currently sold out for the night.

DAY 22-23 WHITEHORSE-WHITEHORSE-WHITEHORSE

SUNDAY-22
 Unable to transport bike to a Harley dealer, the closest one is only 750 miles from here. JB needed to get started for home and not wanting him to ride these lonely backroads alone Jan left with him until the can get down to I-70 and part ways. Spent Sunday walking around Whitehorse, finishing the day with dinner (courtesy of Bruce) at a great little restaurant.

MONDAY-23
Monday morning Bruce and I were at the Yamaha dealer, recommended to us, twenty minutes before they opened to find ourselves fourth in line for the service writer. He quickly let us know that front wheel bearings for a Harley Street Glide were not in his parts inventory or anywhere in Whitehorse.

Rode in on the Greyhound
I'll be walkin' out if I go
I was just passin' through
Must be seven months or more
Ran out of time and money
Looks like they took my friends
Oh, Lord, I'm stuck in Lodi again
John Fogerty

Waited until after nine for some of the few Harley Dealers south of us in British Columbia Province to open and the phone calls started. Another forty-five minutes and the parts were found, they are currently being driven to an airport then flown to Whitehorse. Bruce may have wished he had saved the money spent on dinner for shipping costs. The service department assured us that if they came in as expected he would be a morning priority. FINGERS CROSSED!

DAY 21 HAINES TO WHITEHORSE

Ridden this route in the other direction so we got to see the backside of all the mountains this trip. Bruce's front wheel bearing failed and we parked the bike and Bruce at Haines Junction to await AAA. Our thinking is that Whitehorse at least has a motorcycle shop and a U-Haul dealer along with our hotel reservation.

People out here are self reliant, helpful, take care of each other types. The owner of the Dairy Queen like establishment in Haines Junction offer to go home and look for an old harley wheel bearing he thought he still had in his shed. He then offered to trailer the bike to the hotel and gave Bruce a phone book for Whitehorse along with his phone to use. So, in Whitehorse with Bruce maybe a truck Sunday to transport the bike, maybe not, we'll figure it out.

DAY 20 HAINES TO SKAGWAY TO HAINES

Left in time to catch the passenger only, Fast Ferry, to Skagway however I had apparently made a poor choice of which dock we should be at. Finally arrived at the correct terminal to find a 200 passenger ferry sitting at the dock, yea we made it! This was not our ferry it had departed a few minutes prior to our arrival and I started getting stressed about missing the ferry, missing the train in Skagway, missing the day.

I had to take a few deep breathes and follow some good advice:

I bought a cheap watch from a crazy man
Floating down canal
It doesn't use numbers or moving hands
It always just says now
Now you may be thinking that I was had
But this watch is never wrong
And If I have trouble the warranty said
Breathe In, Breathe Out, Move On
Jimmy Buffet

Jan and some of the guys explained our problem to the boat crew and the next thing I know we are on the ferry with a lady and her son who had also missed the boat. Forty-five minutes later after a nice lecture on the deepest fjord in North America and a chance to Captain the boat.

What a great crew, never even asked to see our tickets!

Then it was competition for lunch with 7000 cruise ship passengers before boarding the narrow gauge railroad for a ride. Steep, for a train, inclines along sheer granite walls and cliffs dropping hundreds of feet led to a great ride.

 The train would undulate up down and side to side over the uneven road bed. Originally built to haul gold seekers to Whitehorse it now hauls tourists during cruise season.

Uneventful boat ride back to Haines and the bikes were right where we left them.

DAY 19 HAINES JUNCTION TO HAINES

Short day, about 150 miles to Haines, another end of the road fishing/tourist village. Three ways to Haines, float plane, ship, or road through Canada.

Except for the last few miles the road was in great shape with another day of incredible views on beautiful roads.

 

Along the road we spotted bears, beavers, red foxes, and tourists.

I realize that I post way to many scenery pictures and that the become monotonous  after awhile. I click on the info icon bring up a map to go along with the picture and trigger a memory. So bear with me and know that we are in awe every day of the land we are travelling.

One last photo of main street Haines at 8 PM.

DAY 18 GLENNALLON TO HAINES JUNCTION

The roads could have been better but also could have been worse. Stretches of 70 mph laced with the occasional frost heave, pot hole, or quarter mile of gravel. These areas usually had warning signs but sometimes they didn't just to keep you paying attention.

Only had one of these today:

Lots of these gravel sections:

What made the day great was the 400 plus miles of great weather surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains.  To our left were rolling forested hills of many shades of green. While to the right were incredible high snow capped jagged peaks with lakes and rivers along the road. All under a sky of the deepest, brightest blue turning to turquoise closer to the horizon with patches of brilliant white clouds to break it up. A gorgeous day of which we are rapidly growing accustomed.

DAY 17 WASILLA TO GLENNALLON

Late start after some minor bike service then a short ride to Glennallon and the Caribou Lodge.


Lunch in a small restaurant along the way was a pleasant surprise with good homemade food. Landscape varied from mountain passes to fairly flat with trees that appeared stunted, was told that is due to the weather extremes.

  Stopped at an overlook that looks down on a glacier and several lakes. Weather varied from cold to rain to nice with only a little construction. Finished the day with mexican food (?) next to the lodge.

DAY 16 HOMER WHITTIER WASILLA

Started the day with a  ride around Homer before leaving the spit and heading northward. We had decided the night before to make the side trip to Whittier and the Portage Glacier field.

So, there are three ways into and out of Whittier, take a boat, ride a train, or ride between the rails on the longest rail tunnel in North America. Two and a half miles of fun and tension in an unlit rock walled moisture leaking tunnel. This is while knowing that motorcycles go last because of the there propensity to get a tire stuck in the rail and fall down. The tunnel authority alternates directions of travel since it is just wide enough for a standard truck. Here is a link to the motorcycle safety instructions which were also given verbally (click here)

Leaving Whittier stopped at the Portage Glacier National Park Site before heading out for our goal of Wasilla.

No I'd rather go and journey
Where the diamond crescent's glowing
And run across the valley
Beneath the sacred mountain
And wander through the forest
Where the trees have leaves of prisms

And break the light in colors
That no one know the names of
 Carole King / Gerry Goffin


The scenery today was absolutely beautiful, majestic mountains, glaciers, snow capped peaks, green forests of every shade. Ending with twenty miles of hard rain in Anchorage rush hour to let us know train tracks and tunnels aren't the only thing that can get you.

Met an old sea captain in Whittier who entertained us with his tales of the sea.

DAY 15 SOLDOTNA TO HOMER

Didn't leave Soldotna until a little after 11, suited up in rain gear and headed south. At Kenai switched from the main road to a smaller road closer to the water in a light rain. Made a stop off the main road to see a Russian Orthodox Church with a very slippery mud parking lot, but that's another story.

 We didn't ride all that far today but did make one of our goals, Homer Alaska Lands End.

UP IN MASSACHUSETTS THERE'S A LITTLE SPIT OF LAND
THE MEN WHO MAKE THE MAPS CALL THE PLACE CAPE ANN.
THE MEN WHO DO THE FISHING CALL IT GLOUCESTER HARBOR SOUND
THE WOMEN LEFT BEHIND, CALL THE PLACE DOG TOWN
HARRY CHAPIN

Riding down the spit with the wind, the mist, water on both sides definitely brought to mind that song. Wrong side of the country but the sentiment is correct.

 Once we checked into our hotel, which takes rustic to a new level, the weather cleared the bikes got parked and moods improved.

The only way to go from here is back north so the direction for tomorrow is north!    

NO SARAH, LEAVING WASILLA-DAY 14

Sarah Palin was a no show for breakfast so headed south to Anchorage with a stop at Denali Harley were we couldn't even pretend it was for oil this time. I asked the staff at the Harley dealer if they would like to video us pushing the Honda to use in their advertising, besides its inherent comedic value of old people pushing motorcycles. Then on to the Honda dealer were a young skinny grease covered kid diagnosed and corrected the problem with the Gold Wing.

We then headed towards the Kenai peninsula winding through mountain passes shrouded with clouds and mist.

We were born before the wind
Also younger than the sun
Ere the bonnie boat was won
As we sailed into the mystic

Hark, now hear the sailors cry
Smell the sea and feel the sky
Let your soul and spirit fly
Into the mystic

Van Morrison

Ended the day in Soldotna, not sure where tomorrow might find us.

DAY 13 SOUTHWARD (FOR NOW)

64.84 DEGREES OF NORTHERN LATITUDE


That was the northern terminus of our ride this year. The farthest north we have  ridden to  date. The sun doesn't really ever go away, neither do the clouds or cool air at least during our brief time here.

Left Fairbanks after breakfast and headed to the vast area of Denali National Park six million acres bisected by one partially paved road and the continents highest peak at 20,310. We entered the park stopped for the mandatory (for some) refrigerator magnet. Back on the bikes we rode the park road the 14 miles in that allow private vehicles. Made several stops to view the overwhelming scenery. We had a few glimpses of the lower portion of Mt Denali but most of it was in the clouds all day.

Back to the lodge for lunch then it was time to head on down the road. Gentle winding back and forth with incredible mountain ranges to both side, tops of which were well above the tree line. A nice afternoon ride with the exception of a delay for construction.

Stopped for the day as the clouds started getting darker in Wasilla a city of 9700 which makes it the sixth largest city in the state and 350 feet above sea level.





 

DAY 12 DELTA JUNCTION TO FAIRBANKS

Left later this morning following a good breakfast in the motel restaurant. Stopped for a photo op before leaving town.

Rode towards Fairbanks with a quick stop at the North Pole for a picture. Then it was on to Outpost Harley Honda BMW for a shot at getting Ken's bike looked at. We thought it had been taken care of in Whitehorse but the problem returned, probably something simple but beyond our ability on the road. It still runs fine just requires assistance to start.

Of course since we were at OUTPOST HARLEY the northern most dealer I believe a few t-shirts were purchased by some (all) of the Harley riders. The service department was less than helpful and we were soon on our way after deciding to stay in Fairbanks.

After checking in rode to an oil pipeline observation area, made for an interesting afternoon. We seem to be able to get everything done and are in for the night before dark. Today sunset is 12:10 AM then you have dusk until sunrise at 3:43 AM.

Tomorrow on to Denali!

DAY 11 HAINES JUNCTION TO DELTA JUNCTION

Raised by the collision of tectonic plates, sculpted by glaciers, snow, rain, and wind. Our path first traveled by animals and indigenous peoples then settlers, hardier than I, now leaving me in awe around every corner.

Great day of beautiful weather, beautiful scenery, an easy border crossing, moose along the road, but not in the road. Ended the day in Delta Junction the end of the AL-CAN Highway.

The road was built to move troops and supplies to Delta Junction for the war. The road from Delta Junction to Fairbanks had been completed in the 1910's but the railroad stopped at Dawson Creek. The road completed the 1442 miles between railroad and existing road. 

DAY 10 WHITEHORSE TO HAINES JUNCTION

Great ride if you discount the several miles of mud and gravel. The scenery continues to awe and inspire.

We left Whitehorse late after riding around to several of the local sites and doing a little grandkid shopping, sorry big kids limited room on the bike.

Finished the day with a late lunch at the hotel followed by an early dinner same place. Wonderful afternoon talking to a very interesting motorcyclist from New Zealand who convinced me that a motorcycle ride around South Island needs to be on my bucket list. I know what you're thinking "how old are you?" Bob from New Zealand is 72 and riding the Al-Can alone, you are only as old as you feel. That is as long as you avoid, mirrors, your birthday, or trying to bend over to grab your AARP card when you are asking for a senior discount.

More pics posted today outsidetheframe.life click on 2018 pictures.

DAY 9 EAT, FUEL, REPEAT

Rode from Watson Lake to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada. Same as the day before with higher mountains, different characters (some repeats) and less animals. Another day of incredible roads and scenery.

Whitehorse is a gorgeous town of about 25,000, largest in the Yukon. The town was the jumping off point for minors heading to the gold rush. Eventually there was a train station, a paddle wheeler on the Yukon River, which is next to the train station. Walked around downtown Main street before stopping for dinner.

Dinner with some new friends, Sean and Bill, at the Miner's Daughter Restaurant where fish and chips all around was in order along with liquid refreshments.

DAY 8 FT NELSON TO WATSON LAKE

If I had to pick an almost perfect day of riding in the trips we have taken this would rank right up there.

Great road, bike just purring, shirt sleeves, scenery, wildlife, interesting people where ever we stopped.

I'm out here a thousand miles from my home
Walking a road other men have gone down
I'm seeing a new world of people and things
Hear paupers and peasants and princes and kings

Bob Dylan

The animals were all in place waiting for us to ride by. We saw black bear, one grizzly bear, elk, dozens of mountain goats deer and numerous interesting characters along the way.

Groups of riders were everywhere and every time we stopped it led to great conversations. Always starting with "where ya from?" and followed with "where ya goin?"

The wait staff, clerks, gas station attendants, everyone is a character up here and live here for a reason. Getting gas at a "full service" station went like this.

The pumps were very old and an old cowboy, probably my age, turned on the power handing you the pump handle, he then wrote down the amount on a small sticky for you to take to the cashier. While he was standing there I asked how his day was going and he answered "I've had a shower a doobie and a beer so pretty damn good".

At one point today with the Harley riders push starting the lone Goldwing a group we had just met at lunch asked us to do it again so they could video it.

Just a great day ending with shared rooms in a refurbished WWII Air Force barracks, no shoes indoors, shower down the hall.

A great day.

DAY 7 DAWSON CREEK TO FORT NELSON

After breakfast it was apparent that the rain was here.

Suited up in rain gear, warmed up six very cold bikes and headed into the storm. The kind of riding that really isn't comfortable but pushes you to be hyper aware and just makes you feel alive. Wrapped up in the cocoon of the rain gear, tires slinging water riding closer to the edge.


There's a dark cloud rising from the desert floor 
I packed my bags and I'm heading straight into the storm 
Gonna be a twister to blow everything down 
That ain't got the faith to stand its ground 
Blow away the dreams that tear you apart 
Blow away the dreams that break your heart 
Blow away the lies that leave you nothing but lost and brokenhearted

Springsteen

When we stopped for lunch the weather had cleared and it was time to strip off the rain gear, eat a hearty lunch and head on down the road.

The road was in great shape, heavy forests of deep green, puffy white clouds and just a great afternoon getting to Fort Nelson.

DAY 6 DAWSON CREEK!

Finally made it to the jumping off point for the AL-CAN Highway. Took the long way to get here today but talking to other riders our northern route avoided some severe storms. Great roads, lots of green, forests so thick you couldn't see 3 feet in. A long route but a great day.

Approx map of today(click here for map), posted a few new pictures on the link.

DAY 5 JULY 5TH STRAIGHT FROM GARTH

 I woke up feeling a little tired, a few aches and pains, looking forward to a great day on two wheels. The road was long straight with a slow speed limit (110K) redefining boring. Grass lands and crops as far as the eye could see in every direction. Even a lane change became a reason for celebration because it caused movement to the left or right.

This ol' highway's getting longer 
Seems there ain't no end in sight To sleep would be best, but I just can't afford to rest I've got to ride in Denver tomorrow night 
 
And the white line's getting longer and the saddle's getting cold I'm much too young to feel this damn old All my cards are on the table with no ace left in the hole I'm much too young to feel this damn old 
 

I know stop complaining, you're on a motorcycle 2000 miles from home with good friends and weeks of riding yet to come. After a trip to dinner and working out the kinks in the spa all is right with the world again. Yet when I heard Garth Brooks on the radio today I just had to agree with him because at that exact time I was feeling "much to young to feel this damn old". 

DAY 4, JULY 4TH HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMERICA

O beautiful for spacious skies

For amber waves of grain

For purple mountain majesties

Above the fruited plain!

Spent the day on I-15, varied from construction to 80MPH roadway with 50MPH curves, ended the day in Lethbridge, Alberta.

DAY 3 ROCK SPRINGS TO DILLON MONTANA

The entire day was absolutely beautiful with roads changing from grasslands to canyons following different rivers. Weaving back and forth on well maintained pavement crossing small bridges with almost no traffic.

Lunch on the Idaho border at Alpine next to a huge reservoir (Palisades Reservoir) on the Snake River. Following the coast line we found a hydro-electric plant at the dam. We were then back following the river, looking down at bright blue rafts full of people. If you had ever ridden the Soaring Over America ride at Disneyland this was one of the scenes straight from that IMAX production. The difference being this was real, right there in front of you happening in real time.

Dinner was at a small local dinner, The 4B's, with decent food, an interesting clientele, and a highly animated waitress. Anjelica, "there isn't a g in it I'm no angel" she was running around the entire place, got our orders right and could explain the difference between a knucklehead, pan, and evo Harley motor. Her first ride as a kid was on her dad's knucklehead. Lets just say she was interesting...

DAY 2 MONTROSE TO ROCK SPRINGS WY

Montrose to Grand Junction, ridden it several times just not that interesting. Left Grand Junction ended up on 191 riding through some gorgeous country with winding roads, switchbacks, mountain passes, with great pavement.

Temperatures ranged from warm (80) to low 60's  at the top of the pass surrounded by aspens, and pines. Eventually rode the west side of Flaming Gorge before ending up in Rock Springs Wyoming. The claim to fame of Rock Springs, it was the boyhood home of Butch Cassidy. He grew up to be the town butcher hence the nickname Butch before turning to train robbery as a preferred retirement plan.

A very pleasant day exploring some new roads but fairly soon we are going to have to get serious about heading north if we are going to make Alaska.

Added a few pics on home page, hopefully many more to come.

DAY 1 PHOENIX TO MONTROSE

Today was the beginning of our 12th guys ride around this great country. Left Phoenix as scheduled with an ultimate goal of meeting our six rider in Montrose Colorado. The day went pretty much as planned with our arriving at the hotel within thirty minutes of each other.

Listening to a James McMurtry song on the way here today the choruses reminded me of our group. Twelve trips ago it was:

Just us kids in the parking lot
Out here givin' it all we got
We don't want to get old and die
And there ain't nothing we wouldn't try

We weren't exactly kids back then we were all just retired but feeling very young and ready to take on the world from two wheels. Today we are still willing but as Jan pointed out to me at one of our breaks today we make more concessions to age than we used to.

Just us kids hangin' out today
Watchin' our long hair turnin' gray
Not so skinny maybe not so free
Not so many as we used to be

Leaving Cortez and heading up Lizard Head Pass we were just as young as we ever were and once again ready to take on the world, give anything a try.

A pretty good start to what we hope will be a pretty good trip.